Do Peptides Really Work for Skin Care?

Peptides seem to be everywhere. They’re on the labels of skin care products, in our social media feeds, and in magazine ads. Influencers tout them as a fountain-of-youth ingredient. But do they live up to the hype?

“There is scientific evidence backing up the use of peptides,” says Shasa Hu, M.D., a cosmetic dermatologist with the University of Miami Health System. “They work, but they’re not the miracle others want you to think.”

In other words, take all those fancy claims with a grain of salt.  Peptides are good helpers when used in conjunction with other proven ingredients. They’re supporting actors but not the main stars. And they’re best “when you want to add something to your skin care routine,” Dr. Hu adds.  Formulation matters. Serums, for example, are more effective than creams because serums can sustain a higher concentration of the designated peptide. Serums also penetrate deeper and are absorbed faster.

Peptides are good alternatives to retinoids and hyaluronic acid, which can cause peeling, stinging, and redness in some users.

Peptides tend to be gentler, helping with skin repair and firmness without irritation.

“There are no specific side effects for topical peptides,” she says, “and if there is some kind of reaction, it’s usually added ingredients that come with it.”  

That said, peptides are not as effective as, retinol, which Dr Hu calls “the gold standard” for anti-aging skincare.

Though the campaign around peptides is relatively new, peptides have “been around for 15 or 20 years. What I think what we’re seeing is a recycling of what’s been out there for a while,” she says.

Peptides are strings of amino acids. When amino acids bond together, they form peptides and when peptides bond together, they create proteins. Science has shown that, if added to other skin care ingredients, peptides can alert the skin to repair itself, which encourages collagen or elastin production. (Collagen and elastin help your skin be more supple and stronger.)

Not all peptides behave in the same way and some are more useful than others.

Four types that are typically used in skincare:

Signal peptides

The most common one found in skin products, “they transmit the message [to skin cells} to make more” collagen and elastin, explains Dr. Hu. They smooth fine lines and contribute to making skin firmer. These are also the peptides with the more robust evidence to support them. Several individual studies and meta-analyses have shown that the use of signal peptides results in improvements in firmness, wrinkle depth and what is known as extracellular matrix repair, or the rebuilding of the skin’s structural scaffolding. For the best results, signal peptides are most effective when used at 2 to 5% concentration and applied consistently for at least 8 to 12 weeks.

Carrier peptides

These carry certain minerals, like copper, needed to build collagen. They also improve elasticity and support wound healing. Though there are only a few studies on this type of peptide, namely the copper peptide GHK‑Cu, these studies do show improvements in participants’ wrinkle depth and collagen production. Dr. Hu says more clinical trials on humans are needed.

Neurotransmitter‑inhibitor peptides

They work by blocking, in part, the release of acetylcholine, which reduces muscle contractions that lead to wrinkles. They’re often called the botox-like peptide, but Dr. Hu says they’re not as effective as injectable neurotoxins. Small studies, for example, have found “modest efficacy” with as little as a 15% reduction in wrinkles and at most a 32% reduction in a few individuals.

Enzyme‑inhibitor peptides

These work by helping to block the enzymes that break down collagen and elastin. They’re considered protective, rather than repair peptides, and are in the early stages of science research in skincare.

While Dr. Hu is enthusiastic about the use of peptides in anti-aging, she suggests everyone start with the skincare routine basics:

• cleansing
• moisturizing
• hydrating
• avoiding the sun
• using sunscreen when outside

Focus on hyaluronic acid and retinoid labeling in your products because these ingredients are effective and tend to be less expensive.

If you want to boost your skincare routine by adding peptides, stick to reputable brands.

“Everyone can recognize retinol [on an ingredient label], but there are so many different peptides that it’s hard for the lay person to make sense of it,” Dr. Hu. “You want a brand that is known for its products and its research.”

Lastly, a warning: Stay away from injectable peptides. They’re not approved by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration and dermatologists don’t recommend them at this point. Though popular with influencers, these injectables have not been tested for safety or efficacy and there is no oversight of their manufacturing. This means the dosing can be inaccurate and their formulation runs the risk of contamination.

Because people often buy them from compounding pharmacies and inject them at home, there have been news reports of abscesses, scarring and infection after use. Some reports also cite other side effects, such as joint pain, mood changes, elevated blood sugar and headaches.

“People shouldn’t be using injectables at all,” Dr. Hu says. “It’s the wild, wild west out there. You’re using them at your own risk.”

Written by Ana Veciana-Suarez. Reviewed by Shasa Hu, M.D.

Tags: collagen boosting skin care, Dr. Shasa Hu, peptides for anti-aging, skin firming peptides